June 2, 2017
by jessica laniewski | April 14, 2014 | Food & Drink
Boston’s latest burgeoning neighborhood hosts a new seafood bar, Row 34.
It’s hard enough to have one hit restaurant, but two? Could you draw the same crowds looking for refined cocktails, an eclectic beer list, and inventive seafood dishes? It seems as though the team behind Kenmore Square hot spot Island Creek Oyster Bar has mastered the magic formula. Build a second restaurant—the oyster bar Row 34—and diners will come.
Since opening this past winter in Fort Point for lunch and dinner, Row 34 has been a hard-to-get reservation, with after-work crowds filling the dining room and bar late into the evening. The restaurant’s name stems from oysters grown in the 34th row of racks on the Duxbury Bay floor, imparting a nutty flavor to the bivalves. Row 34 has distinguished itself from its sister restaurant with an industrial interior design by New York firm Bentel & Bentel, while maintaining the tradition of delicious food and drink. The beer menu, assembled by Megan Parker-Gray, offers 24 draft options that delight and challenge the palate, from the Perle ai Porci Oyster Stout to the unique smoked Abraxxxas peated beer. In addition to a menu of oysters, the ceviche and crudo offerings make a great start to the meal (the tuna crudo with black garlic [pictured] is particularly outstanding). For an entrée, try the homemade bucatini with garlic breadcrumbs and clams, or the tender pan-roasted monkfish with spinach purée. Even the vegetable sides, like Brussels sprouts with orange or buttery roasted cauliflower with pecorino, are special. Save room for the already legendary butterscotch pudding; it’s even better than rumored. 383 Congress St., 617-553-5900
photography by anthony tieuli